Travel
Sirmione is Still the Jewel of Lake Garda
Forget its busy reputation, Sirmione’s untouchable beauty makes it the finest town on the shore and an authentic piece of Italian charm
Few countries in the world can boast the sheer variety of Italy. Flanked by the Alps, surrounded by islands and peppered with some of the world’s greatest cities, the Repubblica Italiana has long been the retreat of choice for holidaymakers across Europe and beyond, and its diversity is no more evident than in the lakes that bejewel the Northern regions of the country. Lake Garda — the largest of the bunch — bisects the provinces of Verona, Brescia and Trento, making it a melting pot of relaxed, alpine charm and instagramable luxury which has proven the stomping ground of Hollywood A-listers and 18th century playwrights alike.
Sirmione, the ancient town at the southern foot of the lake, perhaps best encapsulates Garda’s mix of glitz and Italian authenticity, but a tourist-trap reputation in recent times risks staining the allure of a destination which is still, truly, the jewel in the crown of the region. “The pearl of the peninsulas” is how the Roman poet Catullus puts it — a place of distinct geographical beauty that resists the commercial trappings of its neighbours. Where else demands you walk a drawbridge before entering?
A short bus ride from the nearby Desenzano del Garda (or Verona, if you’re hopping straight off the plane) brings you to Sirmione’s picturesque Scaligero Castle, a fortified port defence that looks more Pirates of the Caribbean than La Dolce Vita. A walk under the portcullis leaves the buzz of taxis and speedboats behind (cars are forbidden unless to access hotels) and brings you to the Piazza Castello, the first of the town’s two main squares and a quaint introduction to the Italian café culture one comes to expect from an economy entirely dependant on tourism. From then on, it’s narrow, cobbled streets lined with gelato and Acqua di Parma — think Salcombe, but with sun — until the shops and restaurants make way for uninterrupted greenery (the mild climate favours the growth of olive and lemon trees) all the way to Sirmione’s two beaches, save for the occasional purr of an Alfa Romeo or Ferrari. No selfie sticks. No superyachts. Just Italy as it should be.
A tourist-trap reputation in recent times risks staining the allure of a destination which is still, truly, the jewel in the crown of the region
For those after a unique sunbathing experience, the belt of white rock at the tip of the peninsula (the aptly-dubbed Jamaica Beach) creates the illusion of a crystal-clear shoreline, while a small grassy embankment offers the option of natural shade. Forget concrete jetties and man-made plunge pools, Sirmione’s tricky geography has prevented the typical invasion of megahotels that crowd the shores of the larger towns. What’s more, the scores of ferry-bound day-trippers that flock to the main squares at lunchtime rarely venture beyond the comfort of their Aperol Spritz — the beach is seldom crowded and well worth the walk to Sirmione’s northernmost point. It might just be the best natural swimming spot on the whole lake.
An Italian town wouldn’t be complete without a healthy portion of history, and the Grottoes of Catullus — the remains of a 1st century B.C. Roman villa said to be the most important archaeological site in Northern Italy — sees two hectares of long porticoes and open terraces rest directly above the shoreline, towering over the beach below. The site was a filming location for the wanderlust-inspiring Call Me by Your Name, which is a Timothée Chalamet-sized reason to visit in itself.
And the food? This is Italy, after all. Sirmione is home to Michelin stars aplenty as well as several authentic, good value eateries that line the streets when the sun goes down. You’d do well to use the price of a margarita and a seafood risotto as a marker of value in a given area, and Sirmione doesn’t demand the big bucks to enjoy the culinary staples of the region (around €6 and €13 respectively) — the glutton in all of us can rest easy. Don’t expect to be hounded by rose-floggers mid-linguine, either. This is a world away (or a few hundred kilometres, at least) from the endless commotion of Rome and Venice.
Avoid August and keep walking. With those two bits of advice, it’ll be hard not to fall for Sirmione’s charms. That way, you’ll avoid the crowds that descend on Italy in high season (the entire population of Germany?), and discover the unique but underappreciated natural beauty of a Lake Garda must-see that refuses to be discoloured by its popularity. Yes, it’s often number one on the itinerary of many lake-trotters looking for a pretty lunch, but Sirmione deserves so much more than the passing glance of a day trip. Just ask Maria Callas.
